Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Bricks and Ants

My Mom took me to see where they’re making bricks. I guess we own a small plot of land in the marshy area, down past our house. There is good clay for making bricks there and it’s a source of secondary income – helps to pay the school fees. She said each brick was worth about 130 USh (about 5 cents) and with labor, costs about 70 USh to make. They dig up the clay (when it’s dry so there’s no H2O in the pit) then mix it to the right consistency with their feet, (I think that’s what my Mom said) pack it into tight mold, and stack a huge pile so that there is space (oven like) to start a fire underneath to bake the bricks. The whole structure is covered in mud, cooked, and then people drive up, take what they need, pay, and are off. Very different from good ol' Home Depot. I got to see the huge pile of cooked bricks – about 10,000 my Mom says.

While we were hanging around there, I accidentally stood across a line of ants – there are these black ones that determinedly go from A to B (seemingly random locations) and all over you if you happen to interrupt. Unfortunately, they bite. Not like the red ants in the SW, but annoying. My Mom apologized profusely (as if it was her fault . . . ?) but I asked about their names (and have, of course, forgotten it since). She was surprised we only have one word for ant. I said people don’t really like them, avoid them, and have no desire to differentiate, except for red ants (ouch!) and scientists. She told me some are delicacies, as well as grasshoppers, termites, and others. They found it hysterical when I made a face and said most Americans feel similarly. Sometimes it’s a lot of fun to share cultures – everyone with us got a hoot out of it, and the faces I made.

From a letter postmarked March 22

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Week 7

News from this week....We now have ~100 baby chicks in the backyard (they're adorable, and coupled with a session on chicken raising yesterday, I'm seriously thinking about getting some - fresh eggs would be nice. however, a cat is top priority). One of our cows died, which is a big deal around here (they're worth ~$500), so now there's no milk, but everything still goes on. It has been so hot here this week, I think it's been the lack of rain. It finally poured this morning (while Angela and I were running - it was glorious!) and everything has cooled down. Just in time for our pool party today. We were graciously invited to the ambassador's house to relax and use the pool. Mr. and Mrs. Browning were very friendly, and we had fun swimming and hanging out. 'Finals' are coming up soon - there's a language oral exam (LPI) and a Qualifying Project. The qualifying project is a potential secondary project we're interested in starting at our site. I'm leaning towards a community gardens, but am hopeing some inspirational idea will hit me in the next few days.

I'm off to check out the bookstore, but I hope you are all well. Sorry about not responding to any emails - I can't seem to get onto gmail and the internet is down in town :(

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Kampala

So, the last week or so has kinda flown by, I can't believe we've already been here 5 weeks! First off, apologies on the vagueness of locations and names - the Peace Corps (PC from now on. I'm a PCT - PC trainee, hopefully soon to be a PCV - PC volunteer, currently in PST - pre-service training. The PC likes their TLAs) anyways, for security reasons they've asked us to not include locations/names on publicly-available sites. If you want to know the names of places just send me an email/letter.

We're finally settling into a routine. I'm up at 6, off to school around 7. On my bike I get there 7:20-7:30, depending on how many people I say hi to. Walking 7:50-8:00, for the same reasons (it's a great time to practice language). It's so nice and cool in the morning, and quiet. People here seem to be most active later in the day, and our town really comes alive at night. This week we've been focusing on language. We took our mock LPI (hmm...language proficiency interview? it's an oral language test, in 'conversation' form). We've been working up to it all week. Thursday some community members came and spoke with us in the language we're learning. I'm really lucky that Lusoga is very similar to Luganda - the main language spoken in the central part of the country, where we are staying. It's akin to Spanish and Portugese, sort-of. Some PCTs are learning non-Bantu languages, so there is no similarity and it's impossible to practice in the community. So, having native speakers come in was very helpful.

I had thought I was doing okay, but hearing the language spoken at normal speed, and not by someone who is carefully enunciating for my benefit, I've got a lot of work to do. So, that was good practice for the practice LPI, which wasn't as scary as I thought it would be. It was a 20-30 min talk with our language instructor where he basically tried to see what tenses we could use, and how many different vocab words we can include in our responses. Turns out that when I'm asked what foods I like, I'm supposed to use it as an opportunity to show how many food words I know. Slightly awkward, but I guess it's better than a written test.

So that's been most of training, besides occasional technical talks: Ugandan grading system, NTCs (National Teacher's Colleges, blame Uganda for that one) and PTCs (Primary Teacher's colleges - for primary school teachers), mental health, nutrition (included a bit on body image - telling someone they've gained weight is a compliment here. My family has not shied from the idea that they're trying to fatten me up, and succeeding with all the good food). After training we've been getting into the habit of nightly runs. 6/6:30 - 7:00ish it's just cooling down and there's a nice breeze. There's a regular group of 3 us now, though it varies. Especially the last few days. Wednesday my host sister, Martha, joined me for a short run beforehand, and then Thursday my host 'siblings' Badil and Angela (actually a niece) came along. I should mention that Angela is 13, about 2/3 my height, and was wearing flip-flops. We went up this huge hill near my house - I was impressed with her gumption and running skills. Friday, 4 neighborhood boys joined us, so 9 in total - 3 muzungus and 6 Ugandans - it was so much fun, and interesting to hear how the comments of people on the roads changed. Much fewer cries of 'Muzungu!' and much more poking fun at those running with us. I'm not sure what they were saying, though....

Now we're back in Kampala. We came yesterday for a tour of the Bugandan Kings' Tomb (central region), and the National Museum. The National Museum had a lot of the native cultures in Uganda. They had cases showing traditional pottery, clothes, weapons, weaving, woodworking, and much more. My favorites were the the barkcloth clothes. They take strips of bark from the ficus tree and then pound them into this thin, yet strong, brown fabric. The exhibit said that an 18" stip of bark would make a 7' wide cloth. Though now, thinking back on it, it's weird that the units weren't in metric. They also had a map with the locations of the major groups within Uganda: buganda, busoga, acholi, nyoro, ntoro, teso, and many more (and I'm sure I misspelled the ones I listed). They also had a section on paleoanthropology in the area. Not too in-depth, but it was fun to look at various skulls, especially the really tiny ones. There were some about the size of my fist!

We got permission to spend last night here, which was quite the adventure. We had managed to scrounge up a hotel - 2 rooms, 7 beds, 14 people. We got there and it was so much nicer than we were expecting. There was plenty of space, a shower!!!, and a balcony. This weekend happened to be the party for those COSing in April (Close of Service - the group heading home). Which may have been part of why they were cool with us staying in Kampala - there were a decent number of PCVs around to make sure we didn't get into trouble. They had a nice dinner, and we joined them towards the end of it, in time to see the slide show of their time here. It's a lot to look forward to. You can tell they had a blast, and really bonded together. It's going to be hard to leave everything behind in two years...

It was a fun evening, though. We had some quality bonding time in the hotel before heading out. Lots of make-up, hairstyling, and accessory selection (I felt sorry for the few guys in the group). It was nice to get to really relax and hang out with the group, especially not having to worry about walking home before dark, or class the next day. They insisted on doing my make-up and hair, and did a really good job. It was cool to learn something to do with my shorter hair, besides a pony tail.

After meeting up with the PCVs in town, we got our introduction to nightclubs in Kampala. Okay, so just one, but that's enough for me. It was a lot of fun - I've missed getting to dance here, and while it was miles away from swing dancing, dancing is dancing. There was a surprising amount of American music, which was a treat when it came on, with everyone singing along to whatever was played, even if it was something they turned their nose up at before. Just in case anyone's worried about our safety - we were always keeping tabs on our numbers, traveling in groups, and taking taxis. And, dancing in Uganda is much cleaner than in the US, at least, there's more space between dancers. Though maybe that's because everyone's pouring sweat...

Today I'm on my own. Everyone was headed for an American breakfast, but I had filled up on the granola I found (it's the little things that really get me here - granola, yeast, American music, someone playing a guitar....). So, I'm doing internet, a couple of errands, and then heading back home to the pile of laundry that awaits me. It's kinda soothing to tackle the pile though, and a good arm work-out wringing out each item between wash, rinse, rinse, and dry. So, about it from here. Mail has started arriving, and it's been so great to get letters from people! Please do keep in touch and let me know what you're up to!

Thursday, March 12, 2009

PCV Visit summed up

Hello!

Well, I'm back in Kampala after an exciting four days of traveling and visiting in western Uganda. We (me and two other Trainees) left early Monday morning, meeting up with the volunteers we were going to visit after 6 hrs of travel - 1 hr to Kampala by taxi, 1 hr waiting to leave, and another 4 hr by bus. Another trainee continued on - another 5 hrs, but as some of that was due to being stuck behind a herd of elephants, we didn't feel too bad for her. We had a delicious lunch in town - authentic Indian food: naan with vegetable curry and mango juice, mmmm.... before continuing on to their town - about an hour away by 'small car'. This means a Camry-sized vehicle with, usually, 9 people crammed inside. They tend to wait around until they are full, but for a 6,000 instead of 5,000 Ush ($3 vs. $2.5) they were willing to leave with only 7 people. It was a beautiful drive up to their site: beautiful views at the top of each hill, windows rolled down, and good conversation. We stopped in a small town along the way to pick up bananas and passion fruit. They just told the driver what we wanted, he gave a holler when we got into town, and soon swarms of people were offering bananas and passion fruit. We picked what we wanted, payed (it's so nice to be with people who know what things should cost), and were on our way.

They live in a small town, a little ways up the hill. They share a 'compound' with two houses and a small yard. We were introduced to everyone around - they're near a non-profit organization that places orphans with families, and a church. We went and greeted at the organization, where they were having a meeting. The meeting was basically over, but they were giving speeches. We walked in right at the beginning of a relatively long one. Something I've noticed here is that it's very easy to sit through long speeches when you can't understand a word of it. My mind just wanders and I can think about other things, and not worry about focusing on what is being said. We also got to watch all the food arrive. I mentioned that they eat a lot of food here, and this was no exception. There were 12 people at the meeting, and 2 people bringing in food, who I assume were going to eat as well. They brought in one 10L pot, another, a 8L pot, a covered plate....in the end there were 10 pots, two plates, and 4 small baskets with millet bread in them. oh, and two cases of soda. Quite the feast. Having basically just eaten lunch, and having traveled all day, we begged off dinner, and went back to a delicious fruit salad: pineapple, passion fruit, and bananas with some almonds. So good. Then we crashed :).

The next day I went with one PCV to a life skills lesson at a local secondary school, the S.6 class, so seniors. The class was about HIV and AIDs, and was really interesting to listen to, especially the questions from students, which were much more direct and insightful than I had expected. After that, we went with the other PCV to help on a bakery she is starting with a local women's group. She has just gotten the funding okayed and so we went and bought paint in town. It was great fun to be hanging out with other Muzungus, listening to an ipod, and being busy with my hands. Not surprisingly, I ended up with paint-covered hands and paint on my feet, arms, face, and hair. It was a good time.

Then, dinner prep, and some quality reading time on a mat under a tree. Dinner: beans, rice, guacamole, salsa (both made fresh), cheese, and tortillas! oh, and skittles for dessert. We were quite spoiled with food during our visit, and thoroughly enjoyed it. A British couple working at a nearby secondary school joined us, and since neither of the PCVs we were visiting work in education, they said they were more than happy to show me their school.

So, Wednesday morning I met up with them around 10 (after a lovely morning run and yogurt with oats, wheat bran, bananas, raisins, and cinnamon for breakfast. it was wonderful). The school is in mid-term exams, but they were happy to show me around and discuss their impressions on their school and the Ugandan secondary education in general. I ended up spending most of the day with them, picking their brains for what they've learned, as teachers in general, and teaching/living in Uganda. A lot of it centered around lack of money to pay full-time teachers, as well as the lack of qualified teachers to hire (this of course being a never-ending cycle...). Also, the use and role of libraries in the school. It's challenging to teach proper use of a textbook, dictionary, or any other reference when you only have 5-15 copies for 50-100+ students. And without the knowledge of how to really use a text or do research, learning out of the classroom is much more challenging. We also discussed differences between US and British education systems, which is especially interesting as the Ugandan system is based of the British system.

What else....oh, we made banana bread! (and, yes, this puts me at loaf 4 since arriving, I really need to find some new recipes... I did find some yeast, so hopefully I can make some yeast bread soon!). I learned a much more efficient baking technique: take a large pot, place a brick, rock, etc. on the bottom, cover it (with another pot or a lid if the pot is deep enough), and heat it up. Lower the heat underneath (remove coals, add sand/ashes, or turn down the gas :) and put the item to be backed on the brick. Wait. Remove yumminess. Eat.

We had a wonderful evening kyaai (pronounced Chi, aka tea) at a family's house across the way. They're good friends of the PCVs we were visiting and wanted to meet us, or at least we were a good excuse for kyaai. Kyaai consisted of tea, hot cocoa, hot water or milk, which ever you preferred as well as g-nuts (peanuts), boiled eggs, and bread, and banana bread :). Quite yummy. Though the best part were the three adorable kids. One was 7 months, and just loved the banana bread. The young boy had so much energy and was running around, giving high fives, sitting/climbing on laps, handing out g-nuts, etc. The young girl was much more shy, but quite enjoyed braiding our hair.

After late, a late night stroll into town for Rolexes: Chapat's (fried tortillas) rolled with a fried egg and tomatoes. Stopped at a restaurant for a table, cold sodas, and an avocado to put in our rolexes. delicious. oh, and I've discovered a new soda: Stoney's. It's by cola-cola and is similar to ginger ale, but with 10X the ginger. Beats me why they don't sell it in the US.

So, I'm realizing how long this post is turning out to be. Apologies. Also, I wish I could be sending pictures, but the internet is so slow, I haven't even tried up loading any yet. Someday. Also, sorry about the typos, spelling errors, and many grammar errors.

That's about the end of the trip. We were up early today, took a nine-person small car into town, hopped a bus, and now are hanging out in Kampala eating junk food, checking emails, and soon heading back to homestay and training tomorrow.

I hope you guys are all doing well. I'm sorry for any emails I haven't responded to, or letters. Which, by the way, don't seem to be coming. The mail is VERY slow. My mom sent a letter 6ish weeks ago, and I still haven't got it. I'm trying to respond to everyone via letters, which only take ~11 days to get home (at least, the one I know of..). That gives me the chance to not be so hurried about writing them. I've figured out the mail system, so hopefully I'll get better about sending them off. If you want, send an email, and I'll write back (seems to be the most efficient at the moment).

All the best,

Becky

Sunday, March 8, 2009

News from Kampala and Elsewhere

Becky did get to Kampala on Saturday, but only for half a day. No time to update her blog. Here’s what I learned on the phone later that day. They all had a good time in Kampala. Learned about the transportation system, which is good since she leaves on Monday to visit a current volunteer. A combination of taxis, for local travel (they sound more like vans which hold 12-16 people) and big buses for longer trips. Traffic is chaotic, with no stop lights, and lots of motorcycles. The highlight seems to have been the pizza and ice cream for lunch, and the opportunity to buy peanut butter and chocolate.

Some more information about Becky’s host family: They live on a small farm, and grow a lot of their own food, and extra to sell in the market. They have cows for milk and chickens for eggs. The milk is boiled, as is the water, and stored in ceramic jugs to keep it cool. Her host Dad is a teacher and commutes to Kampala. Becky has made banana bread several times – her host family loves it and she’s teaching her host Mom how to make it. Tricky with no oven, but Becky is perfecting her Dutch oven camping technique.

Monday Becky is off to western Uganda to stay for several days with a current Peace Corps volunteer who’s working on health issues. She’s looking forward to seeing another part of the country, learning how a volunteer lives, and learning about the health issues (e.g. nutrition, sanitation, malaria) which will be helpful in her assignment.

Barbara (Becky's Mom)

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Training Begins

Mulia Mutya? (trans: how are you all?)

I've made it through basic greetings and introductions (name, where I'm from, what I do, etc...) and we're starting on daily activities. There is no 'hello' as far as I can ascertain, which means when you greet someone it's more than just a 'hi'. The full greeting asks how your evening was, how everyone at home is, thanks you for the work you do, and asks if there's any news. It really stresses how much people here seem to care about everyone, even strangers.

Many thanks to my mom for posting what I've been up to when I'm unable to get to internet. A couple of corrections...there are four 'children' at home - the two grandkids, and then two kids: a son who's 30? and the youngest, who's 18. She just finished up high school and has been anxiously awaiting her scores (there's a national exam at the end of Primary 7 (P.7), Senior 2 (S.2), and Senior 6 (S.6). Which is equivalent to elementary, middle, and high schools. I think). She's hoping to go to University to study medicine. Another daughter (22) is studying accounting, and is home on weekends. So it's a busy house, but I'm really enjoying it. They almost always have music on - either the radio or TV, and are often dancing or singing along. Anytime I join in they get a good laugh out of it :). They've been teaching me to cook - matooke (steamed plaintain), veggies, and hopefully chapati soon! Yesterday I made banana bread! It was a little burnt on the bottom, as I haven't figured out how to modulate the temperature yet. My host mom showed me how to pour ash over the hot coals, which helped immensely.

Training is going well. We have 2 hours of language everyday, and then lectures on various topics: composting, gardening (my personal favorite), Ugandan history, bicycle repair, AIDs and HIV, various health topics, the education system, the police system, and many others I can't remember. Saturday we're going to get a tour of Kampala (peanut butter! ice cream! fast internet!) and learn about the public transportation system. Then Monday we're off on our own to go visit current volunteers (PCVs) for 4 days. I'm excited to see how they've morphed American and Ugandan living styles. Which, by the way, I'm really enjoying. I'm going to be spoiled by the food - which is probably the healthiest food I've ever eaten - matooke, rice, beans, a spinach-type green, eggplant, tomatoes, a peanut (g-nut here) sauce, and occasionally meat or fish. Oh, and some fruit for desert. Very yummy (which I think might be the spices and oil...). Hopefully I can pick up some good tips before I leave. And living 2-3? miles from school is great - I can bike and just think, or walk and practice my greetings, or meet other trainees and have some quality American time. Also, I tend to leave around 7am, which is sunrise. And they have pretty spectacular sunrises here.

I'm out of time, but hopefully I can send more from Kampala, and get back to more people via email. Apologies for being so bad with responding...

love to all,
Becky